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 itow |
need help 6.5 turbo |
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Posts: 33 12/19/2008 22:36
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i need help with my 6.5 td it wont start when it gets hots will crank but no start replaced glow plug relay injectors injector pump 40000 miles agodont know
what else to do it has fuel when it wont start anyone else have this problem before
thank you for any help it a 93 chevy 3500hd wrecker please help me get it running ryan Daves Service Center, inc
Last Edited By: itow 12/21/2008 14:33.
Edited 1 time.
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daves towing |
#1 | |||
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Posts: 7 12/22/2008 14:41 |
5 gal of gas and a match problem solved
Jared daves service center ,inc |
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bigslim101 |
#2 | |||
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Posts: 1230 12/22/2008 15:16
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The pump mounted driver (pmd) is a injection controller on the side of the injector pump and are very common to fail when hot. There are alot of sites online
that offer relocation parts to move this to a cooler area and solve repeated failures, many also suggest throwing the engine cover away as it retains too much
heat and cooks that part. Try leaving the cover off first, it may solve the problem for free. Good luck.
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itow |
#3 | |||
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Posts: 34 12/22/2008 17:59
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dont think mine has a pmd its a mechanical pump
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sidney creech |
#4 | |||
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Posts: 18 12/22/2008 19:49 |
93 was the only year with the mechanical pump and the turbo about the only one ill have sounds like its sucking air somewhere or losing compression
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itow |
#5 | |||
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Posts: 35 12/22/2008 21:06
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how do i check that
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paul windsor |
#6 | |||
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Posts: 123 12/23/2008 22:33 |
we have 2 of the 6.5 mine wouldn't start when it got hot and had to hold gas pedal down and crank the shit out of it tell it started did all of what you
did with no help found that at the tank were the lines go into the tank at the 90deg. angel they were rust and holes in the line steal part put a new sender in
the tank and runs like a charm touch wood ...paul
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itow |
#7 | |||
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Posts: 36 12/24/2008 15:52
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ill check that too thats how i have to start this one crank and hold to floor or if no luck a little starting fluid and im on the way |
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alpinepr |
6.5 junk | #8 | ||
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Posts: 1 12/27/2008 14:57 Directory List Pending |
GMC/Chevys problem with those things they are good for one thing those motors Boat anchors!
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paul windsor |
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Posts: 124 12/27/2008 15:31 |
yea but there cheap to fix and replace not like a 7.3lt they kept me broke chasing pumps and head gaskets
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itow |
#10 | |||
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Posts: 39 12/31/2008 23:12
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check the fuel sender not that thinking its an injector pump
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paul windsor |
#11 | |||
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Posts: 127 01/01/2009 10:58 |
sorry to hear that wasn't your problem that's what fixed me maybe i just got lucky how is the pump under the driver side door on the frame u check
that out??? it sounds like u have air in the system n there a bitch to start then i but card board on the ground under my fuel lines n tank and under the back
of the motor where the lines run down started truck let in run for 30 mins shoot it off and watch for fuel leaks on the card board just a thought bud ..H.N.Y
....paul
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itow |
#12 | |||
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Posts: 40 01/01/2009 13:39
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thanks ill try the card board thing next i check the pump under the door it works thanks for all your help |
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GnadFly |
#13 | |||
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Posts: 6 01/01/2009 15:24 |
So when it's fully warmed (hot), extended crank/no start, yes?
-Only when 'hot'? -Will it start OK cold? -Any other performance issues when it IS running? (stumble/stall/ power loss/etc.) -Any changes in performance as the truck heats-up? (from cold to hot) -Did the 'warmed' truck stall/die on you or did you turn it off? These things are notorious for eating fuel lift and injector pumps as well as losing ring seal (compression). And as bigslim101 suggested, the post-93 models had all sorts of other issues..mainly under that cover...from PMD to wiring harness to...Burp!. Here's where I'd start... 1. Check engine cranking RPM, should be over 180 RPM when warm 2. Check engine crank compression, must be over 380 PSI after 6 puffs. 3. Check lift pump operation when the truck is acting up, should have 6-8 PSI from the lift pump to the injection pump when cranking. (Fuel lift pump is on the frame rail). --OR-- If this is an Intermittent hard hot restart. Cold starting is OK. No drivability issues at any time. It *might* be something as simple as an air leak... 1. Install a piece of clear plastic hose on the outlet of the fuel filter. 2. Drive to failure. Check for air bubbles in the hose when the engine will not restart. 3. Vacuum check the supply fuel system from the tank to the injector pump. 4. If no leaks are found replace the lift pump. Hate to be the bearer of bad news but there's a reason that Chevrolet did away with these nightmares after only a couple of years. Chevrolet has NEVER made a good diesel engine, themselves. EVER! (and I'm a Chevrolet man) Hope this helps. Good Luck. |
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itow |
#14 | |||
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Posts: 42 01/01/2009 17:13
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thi cut the truck off after driving from home to work 5 miles went back to it 1-2 hours later would crank but not start unless you cranked for a while then it
would start right up runs fine when running works it butt off i have checked the lift pump works fine replaced the injectors glow plug relay and oil pressure
switch bleed the air out after the injectors were replaced might not got out all the air i still use truck everyday but i got to fix it i replaced the
injector pump in 05 but that doesnt mean anything with those things i used it 3 times today and it is doing fine might be cause it is 30 degrees out so the
motor cools off quicker i check the coolant temp sensor and i t is bad waiting for a new 1 in the am havent checked the compression how do i do that in a
diesel
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GnadFly |
#15 | |||
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Posts: 8 01/01/2009 19:12 |
Hey Ryan, seems you've already tried most of what I was going to next suggest.
Are there any Diagnostic Trouble Codes stored? (Check Engine or Service Engine Soon light on??....and they do light-up, when the key's on/engine's off, yes???) How many miles on that injector pump? (not that it really matters, I'm just curious) When you swapped it was it a new unit, re-manufactured, or a used one ? Because it's now sounding like it's probably a worn head and rotor in the injection pump. Try this. Wait until you're down to about 5 gallons of fuel and add a quart or 2 of two-stroke oil to the tank. (Yes, you read it correctly) If the situation improves at all that's likely the problem. If not, check the compression. (checked with a DIESEL compression tester through a removed glow plug...If ya' can't borrow a tester, a new one runs around $125 or so...??? You may need to buy the adapter for this particular engine though. ) If that ain't it, I'm going to have to say that it's probably a loose nut behind the steering wheel, 
Good Luck. John
Last Edited By: GnadFly 01/01/2009 19:14.
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itow |
#16 | |||
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Posts: 44 01/01/2009 19:22
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thanks the pump has about 40000 on it and it was a remanned pump thanks john for your help
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iwstow |
#17 | |||
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Posts: 46 02/17/2009 19:22 
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it's the 6.5 thing always a problem just like the 6.0 navistar. the pump's on the 6.5 "turdbo" is a pain when these things first came out my
family owned a chevy dealership u would not belive the problems 90% of the engines had a lots of issues mainly pump's i've seen the wrecker go get them
from the gas station when the salesman would go fill them up for new owner delivery it's probaly a pump issue but i have also seen these thing's go and
go maybe about 10% at best!!!!
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94bigtow |
#18 | |||
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Posts: 122 03/04/2009 23:39
WreckMaster #080084
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I think I got lucky I hav e a 95 6.5 GM diesel and with over 160,000 miles very few problems
OROVILLE TOWING ... |
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itow |
#19 | |||
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Posts: 83 03/09/2009 19:13
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ordered new injector pump today 1300 dollars the head and rotor was bad on mine the dhe parts place said it didnt have enough lubercation we have been using
lucas
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